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Pursuits

Quebec
interactive:
  • Quebec Carnaval image gallery
  • 360-degree images from Quebec
  • Carnaval in Quebec

    Family-oriented fête makes the chilly weather worth it

    February 12, 1999
    Web posted at: 11:18 a.m. EST (1618 GMT)

    By Matthew and Sue Hoye
    Special Correspondents

    QUEBEC CITY, Quebec (CNN) -- While hot spots like Rio and New Orleans come to mind when one thinks of Carnaval, Quebec City is a destination that draws more than 60,000 people every year. Rather than hiding from the biting cold, Quebecois embrace and celebrate it.

    The French-Canadian city comes to life in the winter. With snow-covered cobblestone streets, outdoor ice skating rinks, beautiful European architecture and friendly residents, the city puts out the welcome mat for everyone during Carnaval.

    The festival runs from January 29 through February 14. It includes all kinds of activities that people of all ages can watch or take part in throughout the city.

    At the beginning of the festival, Bonhomme Carnaval returns to Quebec and is given the keys to the city by the mayor. Bonhomme, or "happy man," is a cheerful-looking snowman and the symbol of Carnaval. Throughout the city there are signs and pictures of him in most every store and restaurant.

    During Carnaval, Bonhomme reigns supreme from his ice castle which is across the street from the Quebec parliament building in the Place Loto-Quebec. Colored lights shine through the walls of this ice structure creating a magical effect at night. Dance parties are held at the castle, which is also open for tours.

    At the Place Desjardins, there is the International Snow Sculpture show. Just around the corner is the Canadian igloo exhibit which houses traditional crafts from native Canadian tribes.

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    These exhibits are wonderful, but don't miss visiting the ice sculptures in front of individual shops and restaurants. The detail and designs are well worth standing in the cold to see.

    Sporting events -- for participants and spectators alike

    If you're looking for a little action, Carnaval has plenty to offer. Near Bonhomme's castle, festival-goers can ride down an ice-covered hill in a river raft.

    The International Canoe Race is a highlight of the festival. Thousands of people line the banks of the St. Lawrence River to watch and cheer on teams who battle their way through ice floes and raging currents to row across the river and back again.

    Another annual activity is the Soap Box Derby. Homemade non-motorized mini-vehicles compete, as they roll down Côte de la Fabrique in the old city. A local department store, Simon's, serves free hot chocolate.

    Organizers also put on spectacular night parades, sleigh, carriage and snowmobile rides, dog sled races, a free Calgary flapjack breakfast, mini golf on ice, music and dance parties -- and everyone is encouraged to stop at a Caribou booth.

    A slug of 'Caribou' takes edge off the cold

    "Quoi?" you might ask is a Caribou booth?

    Most restaurants, and many outdoor stands serve an alcoholic beverage called Caribou, which tastes a bit like a sweet red wine. It is served warm or cold, but either way it has quite a bite and definitely takes the edge off the winter weather.

    Many Carnaval-goers buy a hollow walking cane with a screw top in the shape of Bonhomme's face. Revelers pop off the top and fill the cane with Caribou so they can sip for the rest of the festival.

    Vendors across the city sell small tie-on plastic Carnaval passes for four Canadian dollars. These passes are great souvenirs and grant access to all Carnaval activities.

    Another popular souvenir is the plastic Carnaval horn that makes a moose-like sound. We heard them throughout the city at all hours of the day and night.

    Staying, shopping and dining Quebec

    Outside of Carnaval activities, there are plenty of other things to do in Quebec.

    Sculpture

    Most visitors make their way to the Chateau Frontenac, a 106-year-old hotel built by Canadian Pacific Railroad. The chateau presides over Quebec, with a striking view of the St. Lawrence river. The shops and cafes inside make it a good place for tourists to stop and escape the cold.

    The old boardwalk outside the Chateau Frontenac features a snow covered toboggan run anyone can try.

    When dining on the town, visitors can find most any cuisine -- French dining, of course, stands out.

    We espcially enjoyed an Italian bistro called Portofino (54, rue Couillard) which offers a cozy dining experience with dimmed lights and live music. Brick-oven gourmet pizza and outstanding gnocchi are among the many selections, and the prices are reasonable.

    Shopping in Quebec is a pleasure, small shops and art galleries line the streets. For Americans, prices in Canada are good, mainly because of the exchange rate. (Check CNN Travel's Currency Converter for the latest rates.)

    Another thing bringing down the cost for international visitors is that Canada returns GST, or government sales tax, on most items to anyone who is not a Canadian resident. Hotels, clothing, souvenirs, and other consumer goods are all tax exempt, under some constraints. Most stores, and hotels will have the necessary forms to claim a tax refund. Be sure to hold onto your original receipts.

    In addition, many hotels offer Carnaval discounts -- and are family and pet friendly. The Radisson, for example accepts pets as long as you notify the management when making the reservation.

    A word of advice on driving: when arriving in Quebec, park your car at your hotel and leave it there. Quebec is a great walking city. Its narrow streets and winding hills make it the perfect place to shed the automobile and discover a truly French city on this side of the Atlantic.




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    RELATED SITES:
    Quebec Winter Carnaval (English)
    Telegraphe de Quebec: City Guide
    U.S. Consular Information Sheet: Canada
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