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Thursday October 22
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Yamamoto's show received a standing ovation this week as it was hailed as one of the most important collections that has been seen in the spring/summer 1999 collections.
Issey Miyake
There was a standing ovation at Issey Miyake for what was one of the only truly imaginative shows this season in Paris. Miyake knows an enormous amount about material and it shows. Miyake invents fabrics with silks, with glass... it is eternally fascinating.
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John Galliano
Galliano, frustrated by the controls of Dior went a little crazy in his own collection, and it was well worth it. Galliano's show has been one of the only shows to receive across-the-board approval. Surrounded by rose petals and reclining bodies, the models showed off garments that evoked Isadora Duncan more than anything else - languid, pre-war luxury. Greek and Egyptian goddesses trailed around in tulle and lace. A feast for the eyes and the senses.
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Yohji Yamamoto
As the fatigue and stress of a week of collections wears on, Yohji Yamamoto managed to make us forget it for a splendid half an hour. His show was gay, romantic, and feminine. It began with piano notes from the wedding march, and carried the marriage theme throughout the show.
It was a marriage of joy, humor and elegance. Veiled hats, airy fabrics and T-shirt dresses draped around the body were intertwined with long skirts that swept to the floor.
Yamamoto favored zipped pockets, soft, jersey style coats, wide-brimmed hats and immense bouquets of fabrique flowers. Pleated ensembles were trimmed with delicate strips of ribbon, a simple touch that added form. Like a butterfly breaking from its cocoon, Yamamoto's show ended in a moving spectacular. When the lights rose, there was not a dry eye in the house and people leapt to their feet to give the Japanese designer a standing ovation.
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Jeremy Scott
There was a highly charged atmosphere at Jeremy Scott, where the precious avant-garde designer was showing his third collection. The potential is certainly there, but apart from a few girls whizzing up and down virtually nude in sheer tulle embroidered with crystal, nothing terribly exciting happened.
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