Skip to main content
Part of complete coverage on

Top designer shares secret of staying in vogue

From Lianne Turner and Naomi Canton, CNN
October 4, 2012 -- Updated 1350 GMT (2150 HKT)
 
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
  • Lydia Maurer is Artistic Director of Paris label Paco Rabanne Women's Ready-to-Wear
  • The 29-year-old replaced Indian fashion designer Manish Arora in June
  • Prior to that she worked for Givenchy and on Martine Sitbon's Rue de Mail label
  • The German designer has just shown her first collection at Paris Fashion Week

(CNN) -- Making it to the top in one of the toughest and most fickle industries in the world, that of fashion design, requires a careful balance of knowing your own essence and giving the public what they expect.

That's according to Paco Rabanne's Artistic Director Lydia Maurer, who claims one of the greatest challenges of being a designer is staying true to oneself while at the same time listening to comments from critics, journalists and clients, without getting pulled off course by them.

"It's important to listen to it, but it's important to still stay yourself," she says. "Because as soon as you start losing your essence, you start becoming uninteresting. And I think that's what's the biggest challenge."

Read more: Bolshoi Prima ballerina's grace under pressure

The 29-year-old replaced Indian designer Manish Arora as Women's Ready-to-Wear Artistic Director at the French fashion house in June.

She began her career at Studio Berçot in Paris, then took up an internship at Yves Saint Laurent, before joining Martine Sitbon, helping her establish her private line Rue de Mail, followed by a few seasons at Givenchy.

Maurer, who has just shown her debut spring/summer 2013 collection for Paco Rabanne at Paris Fashion Week, was born in Germany to a German father and a Colombian mother and at the age of three moved to Mexico. She spent her childhood traveling widely across South America before settling in Paris.

She sees herself as a mix of her German side, the designer who thinks about utility and shape and her South American side, which is more instinctive and into meshing together textures and colors.

The biggest reward, she says, is creating a collection that persists after the fashion show and seeing that people really want to wear the clothes and the garments do not live on the rack.

As soon as you start losing your essence, you start becoming uninteresting. And I think that's what's the biggest challenge.
Lydia Maurer, Artistic Director at Paco Rabanne

Read more: Boxing's first female Olympic gold medalist: 'I thought I couldn't continue'

Here she talks to CNN's Human to Hero about her childhood interest in fashion, her career to date and the challenges that she faces in her new job.

On her childhood interest in fashion ...

When I was a child I was always very interested in images, in materials and textures.

I just tended to put them in a bag that I would always carry with me, and I would stitch them together or, like, staple them together and make sort of fabrics out of them.

I felt that since my childhood I've always loved doing this, and it's what I do naturally -- I mean, I don't need to make an effort to do it.

On the influence of living in South America ....

I traveled a lot so I would just soak in a lot of feelings, a lot of colors ... and I've always been somebody who likes to record things, so I would ... start taking pictures and making drawings, or taking leaflets and pamphlets and postcards, fabrics, things everywhere and just collect them.

It was also I guess my cultural background which is quite rich. I think that it's that sensibility to color also, to materials mostly that people always saw in me.

On studying at Studio Berçot ...

You have to know where you're going and what it is that attracts you to be there, to survive in a school like that.

They expect collections from you, but no one tells you what to be inspired by ... It forces you to follow your own path, which I feel is the only key to being a good fashion designer.

On being appointed Artistic Director of Women's Ready-to-Wear at Pace Rabanne ...

I have to represent a company, a fashion house that is historic ... that's always attached to the '60s, and now the biggest challenge is to bring it forward to our times.

This is not a fashion house that's purely about style, but mostly about handwork and craftsmanship, and texture and material.

In the end what you're doing is not just supposed to be living for one fashion show, and then you pack it and put it in the archives. It's about giving your creations an afterlife.
Lydia Maurer, Artistic Director at Paco Rabanne

On her debut collection for Paco Rabanne ...

Nowadays women want things that are ... more functional but at the same time we've such an affluence of clothes and brands that are very wearable, that we also are looking for things that are very precise and very special, like sort of extraordinary pieces.

It's also important to balance for me in this collection, the wearable side with the extraordinary piece side. So I, I basically wanted to do something a little bit psychedelic, something that is a little bit '60s but in a ... magic way. Something mysterious.

On where she gets inspiration ...

We can have our phone and take photos with our iPhone anytime, any place.

I travel and I love to bring things back ... even just books or even a shell. Anything can be interesting.

On the real purpose of a fashion designer ...

In the end, what you're doing is not just supposed to be living for one fashion show, and then you pack it and put it in the archives. It's about giving your creations an afterlife. Giving them the possibility to go out on the street, or to be worn by a celebrity for a show, for a premiere or for any kind of event.

ADVERTISEMENT
Part of complete coverage on
June 19, 2013 -- Updated 1139 GMT (1939 HKT)
She's a perfect 10; the surfer that other professionals will drag themselves out of the water to watch.
June 19, 2013 -- Updated 1056 GMT (1856 HKT)
Silvana Lima
Surfer Silvana Lima is the only Brazilian woman competing on the elite World Tour.
June 13, 2013 -- Updated 1133 GMT (1933 HKT)
Even at the age of 40, Haile Gebrselassie -- the "smiling assassin" of running -- has no intention of resting on his laurels.
June 5, 2013 -- Updated 1748 GMT (0148 HKT)
Ruta Meilutyte's initial brush with swimming as a seven-year-old in Lithuania could never have foretold her success in the pool.
May 29, 2013 -- Updated 1227 GMT (2027 HKT)
Amid all the noise and chaos of a short-track speed skating final, there is one voice in the crowd Charles Hamelin can hear as clear as a bell.
May 22, 2013 -- Updated 1301 GMT (2101 HKT)
Zoe Smith's petite frame should fool nobody -- she's a weightlifting warrior. If the teen isn't employing her strength, she's smiting Twitter trolls.
May 15, 2013 -- Updated 1248 GMT (2048 HKT)
Figure skating is a sport where performance is everything -- from the flamboyant routines to the glitzy outfits to the interaction with the crowd.
May 9, 2013 -- Updated 1152 GMT (1952 HKT)
At an age when most pensioners are winding down their lives, Fauja Singh began a new one. Now 102, he has become an unlikely celebrity.
May 1, 2013 -- Updated 1314 GMT (2114 HKT)
As a shivering and nervous new recruit to the British Army, Semesa Rokoduguni began to seriously question why he had left the tropical island of Fiji.
April 24, 2013 -- Updated 1358 GMT (2158 HKT)
Ben Ainslie, the most successful sailor in Olympic history, is now trying to help Britain win the America's Cup for the first time.
April 17, 2013 -- Updated 1441 GMT (2241 HKT)
As driving snow enveloped him and the temperature sank towards zero, Songezo Jim took another big step towards realizing his cycling dream.
April 18, 2013 -- Updated 1427 GMT (2227 HKT)
Having battled to make her name in the male-dominated world of surfing, Stephanie Gilmore is leading a crusade to change the sport's image.
April 10, 2013 -- Updated 1149 GMT (1949 HKT)
Mohammad Nabi hopes the only sport approved by the Taliban will play a big part in uniting his country Afghanistan.
March 27, 2013 -- Updated 1323 GMT (2123 HKT)
She beat bone cancer to become one of Hong Kong's top Paralympians, and Alison Yu Chui Yee is living testament to the power of positivity.
-- Updated GMT ( HKT)
Olympic champion Charlotte Dujardin and Valegro
Charlotte Dujardin has completed an incredible journey from low-paid stable girl to becoming the new star of dressage.
March 13, 2013 -- Updated 1414 GMT (2214 HKT)
Jorge Lorenzo
With a straight face and a shrug, world motorcycling champion Jorge Lorenzo details the danger involved in reaching the top.
March 6, 2013 -- Updated 1221 GMT (2021 HKT)
Inspirational music has long served to focus the mind of some of the world's greatest sporting stars.
February 28, 2013 -- Updated 1526 GMT (2326 HKT)
What do you do if you're a "crazy kid" growing up in Utah? You clip on your skis and go downhill fast -- very fast -- that's what.
February 20, 2013 -- Updated 1338 GMT (2138 HKT)
Born into grinding poverty and with a degenerative eye condition, Terezinha Guilhermina has overcome the odds to be a champion runner.
February 13, 2013 -- Updated 1604 GMT (0004 HKT)
Great Britain can legitimately claim to have invented ice hockey, but its modern-day heroes are struggling to uphold that heritage.
February 6, 2013 -- Updated 1345 GMT (2145 HKT)
It was a "crazy" high-stakes routine that risked everything in the pursuit of gold. It was Olympic glory or humiliation for Epke Zonderland.
January 30, 2013 -- Updated 1254 GMT (2054 HKT)
He is self coached, he relies on YouTube videos to hone his technique -- and in running-mad Kenya, he had to plead with officials to win selection.
January 29, 2013 -- Updated 1902 GMT (0302 HKT)
Nicol David
Standing tall in a sport once dubbed "boxing with rackets," Nicol David has a better analogy to define the particular rigors of squash.
ADVERTISEMENT